The Luang Prabang palace and the museum it houses provide rich insight into Laos and the Laotian people, their past, their culture and the tradition they follow. While the palace museum showcases the history of Laos, a landmark located outside the palace helps one understand India’s: Phou si, a sacred hill that sits right across the palace, the climbing of which is mandatory for anyone who visits Laos and Luang Prabang. Phou si offers panoramic views of the Mekong River and the township around it, but I am more interested in the story.
The township of Luang Prabang started mushrooming around the palace centuries ago, and the Laotians believe the palace to have occupied the same spot right from the beginning of times for Luang Prabang. Centuries ago, Queen Sitadevi, who lived in the palace, craved for a meal of tiger-ear mushrooms. However, in the Northern Lao language, these mushrooms are known as monkey-ear mushrooms. While enlisting the help of her friend Lord Hanuman to find the mushrooms, Sitadevi didn’t quite specify this exact type of mushroom for fear of offending Hanumanji.
Hanumanji kept bringing basket after basket of mushroom varieties from the mountain, but none of them were monkey-ear mushrooms, and Sitadevi continued sending back Hanumanji. Hanumanji was puzzled, rightly so, and thought of an idea. He uprooted the mountain’s top, flew down to Luang Prabang and plop; he deposited it right outside Sitadevi’s palace. “There you go, Devi. Just pluck whichever mushroom your heart desires.”
The hill continues to stand there, even to this day, as a testament of Hanumanji’s bhakti to Phou Sita (Queen Sita). And thus the name Phou Si!
India and the Hindu culture has been holding its sway over entire South-East Asia for centuries together.
In Cambodia, Hinduism’s manifestation is in the form of Angkor Wat, world’s largest religious structure, dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The river bed of Stung Kbal Spean River is home to a vast set of Shiva Linga carvings, earning it the name ‘Valley of Lingas’. Ramayana is part of everyday Cambodian life, Sita the most popular name and some of the top TV shows are on Ramker (Ramayana). Heck, even Pol Pot named his daughter Sitha.
The Vietnamese want to trace their Buddhism not to China but India. But Indians can’t see anything beyond Communism here.
The Indonesian island of Bali is predominantly Hindu and is the flag-bearer of Hinduism outside India. The numerous water temples are a testimony to this. The Tari Kecak, an elaborate dance drama, is based on Ramayana. It narrates the story of Lord Rama during Vanvas, the abduction of Sitadevi, Hanumanji’s efforts to find Sitadevi and the subsequent burning of Lanka. Besides, the Indonesian language is replete with Sanskrit words.
Myanmar proudly owes its Buddhism to India.
In Thailand, the kings from the current Chakri dynasty are anointed the name Rama upon coronation, and Hindu priests conduct this coronation. Thailand has more shrines dedicated to Lord Brahma than the whole of India put together.
But what has independent India done to foster this influence? Zilch. We’ve squandered away our cultural power in this territory and decades of inaction has left a vacuum, which China has promptly occupied.
South-East Asia is abundant with cultural linkages to India, but we failed to act for over six decades. It is not a missed opportunity but a squandered one, one which we shot and buried six feet deep to ensure it’s dead.